Observations: Week One

Observations

Week Uno

You don’t take the Denali extension for the food: pretty bland and not particularly well prepared. For most part not even mediocre. Let’s give it a D

The Expedition Leader (EL)) was competent, concerned, and fairly knowledgeable. The tour bus driver was very competent, did a good job supporting the EL, and the bus was always on time, as were the 13 on the extension. Grade: B+ 

The weather of week 1 was exceptional: sunny, clear, 60s. So exceptional that it was pretty much the only thing we heard from the locals: you are sooooooo lucky! Yes, and seeing the same mountain (Denali) over and over again started to seem like having the same conversation over and over again (kinda like being asked everywhere: is this your first time …fill in the blank…here?). Grade: A+

THB has been lucky with his health: several docs are on the Denali extension. Or, not too lucky: they’ve never met a guy with statin-induced Necrotizing Myositis. THB definitely had a bizarre episode and recovers quickly. This one is Pass/Fail; it gets a Passing grade because THB was able to finish up the first week.

Denali Mountain Peak: Pretty much always visible, the airplane ride around the mountain was about as good as it gets. (this one should probably be Pass/Fail since 70% of the visitors never see the mountain due to clouds). Grade A+

Denali NP is only seen from this 90-mile strip of road in the midst of millions of acres of protected wilderness. Even with a glib and knowledgeable tour guide/bus driver, doesn’t seem to justify a big effort to get here and take an 8-hour bus ride. Of course, some people do the 13-hour bus ride so maybe they see a bit more. Also, it’s an up and back tour on the same road, so it has the feel of being boring twice in a day. THB and DB heard that staying at the lodge at the end of the 90-mile trip was a bit better way to see more. Grade: C-

With only 13 people on the extension, THB felt there were a number of interesting cohorts. At least two were big baseball fans. Phew! Grade: B+ (side note: with the new administration, the outright hostility seems to have gone back underground; no MAGA hats, not Stop the Steal signs, no antagonistic conversations other than during one lunch on the cruise.)

You don’t see too much from the train, even being upstairs with big windows all around and above. Little wildlife and some interesting scenery. Unfortunately most of the hills are covered with the same couple of types of trees. Here and throughout the rest of the trip THB sees many millions of dead Spruce trees. Very depressing, even for a climate collapsarian.  Grade: F on wildlife, B on scenery

THB and DB were very concerned on how Covid would affect the trip. Fortunately, it was minimal on the extension, with just having to juggle when masks were required and when not. Getting a PCR test was straightforward and a real experience. Being negative may have influenced THB’s opinion. There is an offset: not too many people touring Alaska and not enough staff have shown up to work the summer season. Covid impact: Grade: B (not too intrusive)

Alaska: Meta Observations

 

Meta Observations

A great vacation, well planned by DB and Natalie at GeoEx and Astrid at Uncruise. The first week was very standard, the second week was more upscale and adventurous, and the third week was luxurious with lots of great excursions and food.

2.   It was great to travel again. Covid was still a concern, just not a major one. Coming back to the Bay Area, THB was more relaxed, though this is also taking some getting used to.

3.    DB and (especially) THB felt pushed to our limits at times on the excursions. A sign of age and health, for sure. THB and DB will factor that in our future travel plans (though THB is not quite ready to ask for a wheelchair at airports or lodges).

4.    THB thought he would see a lot of wildlife. Sorry, the state is too big and too spread out for that kind of sightseeing.

5.   There are millions of dead spruce trees, an environmental disaster that was even shocking to those of us who saw millions of dead pines in the Rockies years ago.

This pic is the last one of THB's now missing glove, the one under his right hand

Mo on a lakeside hike (and a mosquito net on someone on the hike with THB

THB is leaning way left at this point, Mo and EL on either side

It is testing time (those aren't graduation or bridesmaid's dresses)

Cabin at Tutka Bay Lodge

THB's fave excursion

Winterlake Lodge cabin...loft unused

Bear Cub J...or C

Bear Cub C...or J

Alaska Day 21, Winterlake lodge

Day 21: Winterlake Lodge

Weather Report: Raining off and on all day, otherwise cloudy with occasional sunshine, temps about low 60s

Quote of the Day:  The picnique depends on the weather, no?

It’s a Covid world: One of the couples here at Winterlake went to Alaska last summer and traveled with their 3 kids in an RV. The place was deserted, people were grateful for their traveling here, mask wearing seemed appropriate. Of course, they stayed in the RV.

 

THB's screen at rest

Department of Tchnology: Just when things had calmed down on the computer front, the camera throws THB for loop: the pics load with the second half first and first half second. Read at your own risk.

THB and DB have the usual breakfast, with the NoLa couple. They are hiking today, we are going rafting on the Happy River. Due to weather, are departure is delayed until 10:30. 

Now picture yourself transported to a different place and time: somewhere mid-stream, wet, overcast, with people you barely know and yet are counting  on for your survival. You've just entered the Canon Powershot/Dell computer zone.

There are two rafts awaiting us – no not one for THB and one for DB -as it is a Lodge policy to have a “rescue” boat along. The second boat has another raft guide and one of the kitchen crew who is celebrating his 30^th birthday today. They trail us the entire float.

converted weedwhacker used to inflate rafts

J is our raft guide/oarsman

The river is choppy, there are no real rapids, and we only get splashed a couple of times. J, our guide, sits in back with oars, we sit up front to get the thrill of an unblocked view of the canyon. We’re on the river a total of 3 hours, with a break for our and the zillion mosquitoes’ lunch. This swarm was the worst THB saw in Alaska, a surprise since there were pretty high winds on the river. THB and DB have nets that fit over you hat; so the choice is we eat and the mosquitoes dine on us or neither group gets what they want. Everybody eats.

Rescue boat; at one point they are so far behind us we have to beach our boat

almost fully submerged, a merganser accompanies us for long stretches 

do we eat and get eaten?

Dall Sheep fluff

B'day boy gets to fly down a shale hillside

Back to the Lodge via helicopter, the pilot, b’day boy and DB see a brown bear, THB misses out on that sighting and all of us see a black bear, which looks like a small black lab running in the grass of a meadow.

Much time in the Lodge awaiting appetizers and dinner, packing, reading, e-mailing, etc.

Tonight. THB and DB dine with another couple, clearly older than us, who tell tales of seeing Wrangell – St Elias NP via 4-seater small planes. Whoa! THB learns during their tale they are 5 years YOUNGER than us. Guess the four days of small planes (including one where the pilot opened the door to get a better photographs) ages you very fast. THB and DB considered this in our pre-visit planning and it sure sounded like the paying guests were limited to sitting on each other’s lap (leaving one seat for the survival gear?).

Dinner is excellent (sorry no photos). Another sign that THB is also aging quickly. He heard Chef R describe the first dish as including chard leeks. THB, inquisitive as ever asks if that came from the Lodge’s green house. Ohhhh, Chef $ said charred leeks.

The next course arrives and Chef R is serving seared venison. THB asks if “seared” is really a euphemism for burnt, just like charred is when describing the preparation. Chef R hurries on to the next table.

The next table is composed of 6 adults, 5 of whom are imbibing. Very loud. Too loud for a suddenly very old THB.

Now picture yourself transported to a different place and time: somewhere just after breakfast, it's raining outside and some guy you don't know is examining your feet. You are just about to re-enter the Canon Powershot/Dell computer zone.

Hey, it’s another helicopter ride and this time DB is upfront and helping out as the co-pilot. A bit bumpy, mostly due to the wind. THB was much smoother yesterday in his hops around.

Pilot to co-pilot: fog just ahead, your turn at the stick

Cloiuds obliterate the tops of mountains ahead