Day 6: Santa Fe

Day 6: Santa Fe

Weather: Raining on the way to Abuquiu, clearing just as we are about to start our walking tour, then beautiful skies (very beautiful)

QOTD: I said it was in Edible, not inedible

Breakfast: THB repeats the blue corn pancakes with berries and Greek yogurt (even though THB is trying hard, it appears that the Greeks are not redeeming enough US yogurt dollars to offset their Euro deficits).  

No fitness center this morning, we’re on the road early (thus no time to watch the Wimbledon men’s semis or TdF live) to Abiquiu (pronounced Ab uh cue eeee…THB just made that up, he has no idea how to pronounce Abiquiu, nor spell it). Near Abiquiu is GOK’s Ghost Ranch; we’re taking a walk in GOK’s shoes, thankfully not in her mud boots (we walked in Walter De Maria’s boots already on this trip).

 

One of THB's fave authors and one Cormac's best

THB has not seen the movie, one of many filmed at Ghost Ranch 

It is 1.5 hours to Ghost Ranch from the Inn, and we are there just a few minutes early. For the last 15 minutes of the drive, the rain has started and increasing. Uh Oh!

After we arrive and don our jackets and sign in, the rain is slacking off and then stops as our guide for the walk, Karen, gives us an overview overlooking the vista facing south and west. The rain clouds have passed over, and as Karen talks, the skies turn blue and beautiful. THB has fond memories of Santa Fe skies from his last trip here (something like 25 years ago), and this is definitely bringing back those memories.

We’re doubly fortunate: the rains three days ago wiped out several Ghost Ranch buildings and yet the road in is still passable. The trails are a bit muddy, so we aren’t going to walk as much as usual; still, it is not like LF mud (phew!!!). The drought has gone on for 7 years; in the first half of 2015 they are already over the annual norm on their way to a big year (THB and DB are showing California envy). And, Ghost Ranch is a big enterprise: 450 people staying there; many, many classes and tours available, a pool, horseback riding, and a ton of support staff.

 

What the cowpokes do when the horses have to use the road

GOK factoid: only 13% of her paintings were the iconic large flowers. Karen is an inspired guide, showing us many sites that GOK used for her a number of her other 87%. Having been to the GOK museum the day before really helps (or was it two days ago…in any case, it really helped).  The Walking Tour in GOK shoes: $45pp.

Two hours later, THB and DB feel like this was an inspired choice of activities: we shed the jackets, applied sun tan lotion, and gained much appreciation of GOK.

Lunch on the outskirts of Santa Fe at the Tesuque Market. THB has an unusual chile relleno (stuffed with sautéed mushroom, pinons, and a few other things, no cheese inside), DB has pork shoulder stew (spicy, no pork shoulder!), and we share guacamole and chips (small guac and huge number of chips), an ice tea, $52.

 

$8 of chips, $2 of guacamole

As the chile relleno comes, one of us mentions it looks like a dish at Dona Tomas and the waitress gets an odd expression on her face: it turns out she is from the East Bay and has the Dona Tomas cookbook and loves the place. THB regales here with stories of working his way through the cookbook: great food, takes a lot of time to make a meal.

And, DB tells THB that Tesuque Market is in Edible (free magazine). To THB it sounds like as she looks at the food she is saying it is inedible. Clarification supplied; if you’re in Santa Fe, get Edible (free!) and see if the places you’re planning on eating at are in Edible.

Back to the Inn to rest up, then DB has a spa treatment and THB goes to the fitness center.

Dinner at Vinaigrette with cousin Linda. It doesn’t go well: food takes forever and the salads aren’t as good as before (the night chef is not as good as the lunch chef?); Linda treats.

The opera, Rigoletto, is about what THB and DB expect: the plot isn’t much (even with subtitles), the music isn’t our style, there’s not a great sky show out the back of the stage, and there’s no reason for us to stay for the 2^nd half. The seats are good, still not good enough for THB and his weak eyes to see much of the facial emotions of the singers.