Day 9:
Bilbao to Porto, Portugal
POTD: Excuse me/pardon me: Com licença
Weather: Cool and raining early on the drive to Porto, then
clearing as we get close to Porto
Fitness center, breakfast inside as it is raining in
Bilbao in the morning, then check out and find a gas station (not easy), and
the one we find is on a huge lot except the entrance to the pumps is backed up
against a fence, forcing a line to form. The pumps don’t clearly designate diesel,
a nice guy in the next row explains it to us. You give the cashier your credit card
before pumping, then pump, and return to the cashier to pay. Most people leave their car in front of
the pumps (there are only 4 sets) while the pay. Had to be the most inefficient
gas station event ever (and THB has a lot of gas station experience). 71E to
fill the tank.
THB has a chicken "hamburger" that comes with ham and cheese! |
Long ride to Porto, pretty scenery, with one brief stop
for food, 10E. In the area near the restaurant stop, there is a path paralleling
the highway where we can see a steady stream of pilgrims walking along the
Camino de Santiago. They are dressed for the weather: jackets, long pants, maybe
even boots instead of sandals.
We stop at the border where Portugal (or the private
company in charge of the highway) has set up a machine to prepay the tolls
using a credit card; neither THB nor the woman in the car behind us can get it
to work for us, or so we think (THB checks the credit card next day, no small
tolls posted). Welcome to Portugal!
And, we gain an hour: Portugal is on
the right time zone, Spain is on Germany’s
time zone, a remnant from Franco’s admiration of Hitler
(and something that could “easily” be fixed now if there was central political
will…and Spain can’t even elect a government).
The room is very nice, with four window "alcoves"...non functional alcoves |
Our hotel in Porto, Intercontinental Porto
Palacio das Cardosas, is in the heart of the old city. The GPS has us zigging
and zagging through and around and down narrow streets, and around the last
turn there is our hotel, where we park on the sidewalk. Our packet from our
travel agent is not here when we check in, not a good sign. The room is very
nice, we can even see our dinner place from our corner room.
After a brief
rest-up, we go downstairs at 5 (at least we knew that much ahead of time) where
we meet our guide, Sofia, and driver, Paulo. Good news: they are with us for
the next 2+ days. Our intro to Portugal is a short talk in front of the hotel
of the historic buildings and statue, then we drive across the river to Graham’s,
a major port producer. This town has obviously given its name to the fortified
wine, and along with Graham’s, there are a number of producers with a great
view of the town.
The guide from Graham's |
The tour is
nothing special: lots of old looking small barrels, 10-15 huge vats, some
pictures of the Scottish families involved in the ownership of Graham’s, and
then some tasting of 4 different ports. That means a sip of each for THB.
Porto from across the river:
Sofia and
Paulo shepherd us back across the river on another bridge to the hotel. THB is
shocked that in Friday rush hour traffic and a ton of tourists, we’re back in time
to walk 100 yards to our dinner spot, Tapa Bento.
DA talking pic of the dining room |
THB orders a brewski, did it really come US or is it in the style of an American amber |
The food is
more substantial than a Spanish tapas bar: the starters are plenty big, big
enough that shared by two gives you more than a taste, and the four main
courses are substantial. THB and DB share starters of foie gras on toast with a
mini-pear on top, guacamole and tuna on toast, and mussels in a curry sauce (which
was too salty for THB, DB thought it fine) and a bowl of fish and shellfish in
curry (not as salty as the mussels broth) accompanied by jasmine rice. DA has a
potato tortilla (a large wedge of pie) and a Greek salad and SA has the bowl of
fish and seafood. With cervezas and vino, 125E. Except for THB’s sense of salt,
everything is very good.
And, for probably the first time on the trip, on our short
walk back we see the moon!
We were in Porto about 5 years ago and loved it! Maybe too early for the festival season, seems to start in June, but they do know how to party. If you have the chance cruise up the Douro and then either stay a while or come back on the train the same day. Was going to recommend Pousada Solar de Rede, overlooking a near 180-degree bend in the river, but it appears to be permanently closed. Tough economy there!
ReplyDeleteWe're off to Douro today and wine tasting, not sure if we're driving the scenic route, there are several road closures due to races today, one taking place in front of the hotel here in Porto later today after we're gone...thb
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