Travels of THB: Day 13: Phobjikha to Punaka

Day 13: Phobjikha to Punaka

A pic of a pic of the Scarlet Minivet. THB sees it after Tashi points it out, we're in the car and by the time THB has lined up the shot the bird has flown away

Weather: Maybe low 40s in Phobjikha and warming up considerably as we descend to Punaka to the 70s

Quote of the Day: There was a double-king sighting!

Still a dusting of snow on the trees to the west in Phobjikha

And a ribbon of snow on the mountain

Getting ready to move this morning, packing and checking out. Amazingly for a very high-end place, GG Lodge does not take AMEX, and VISA and BofA reject our two other cards. (probably because we didn't give them advance warning). That sets off a change reaction that:

- results in THB and DB leaving without paying the bill, approximately $520 (alcohol, massages, hot rock bath).

- While we could have paid in USD, it would have meant going to a bank in Thimphui to get more money for tip for Tashi

- try calling VISA via Skype to reactivate our second card; of course the 800# call to them can't be put through for "technical" reasons on their end...

- we do get through to VISA after checking in at Uma Punaka, our hotel for the next two nights

- we'll test that VISA works when we check out of Uma Punaka

- finally, we'll go to the GG Lodge office in Thimphui and put the charges on VISA there (they won't take the VISA card info over the phone)

TMI!

Hard to imagine walking out on a bill and having the Lodge be apologetic for all the trouble it caused us. It’s a sign of privilege, for sure, and of the graciousness of the Lodge management, and of course their realization that our tour operator, GeoEx, will make the Lodge whole and bill us if everything else fails.

ASIDE: AMEX is a mixed blessing: the card is very expensive and if you use it internationally there are no transaction fees. They used to be a great way to book trips; now their airfares are not competitive at all and it is very time consuming to work with their agents. It is also very expensive for the retailers so many don’t take it; it is not cost effective at all for small retailers.

Pics on way to Pumaka

Rhododendron just starting to bloom at higher altitudes

Lower elevations

There are two big hazards on the new road: rockslides and the road disappearing down the cliff

How to redirect the traffic to the shoulder

Guess they don't want you do your car nwash with fresh mountain spring water

$15 if you get caught

The herb in our rock bath last night; also good for cleaning cowenploppen off THB's shoes

Back Roads going straight uphill all the way

Major apartment complex before we get to downtown Pumaka: there's a huge new hospital complex and major hydro-power plant nearby; this is the first time we've seen apartment style living in Bhutan

There are a few of these ruins spread around Pumaka

The descent to Pumaka for the most part is on a very good, recently upgraded road. Even so, the twists and turns start to get to THB and we go slow enough to avoid road sickness. We’re not on a tight schedule, so extra stops and/or slow progress are built in, especially today.

Pumaka is the home of a temple dedicated to the deity: the Divine Madman, using his Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom to penetrate (HAH, that’s a euphemism!) life’s greatest mysteries. It’s a long story, basically this guy goes around bring bad deities under control by using his extra strong penis. The statues in the temple either show his substantial Flaming Thunderbolt sticking out of his robes or someone has decided to cover up the Flaming Thunderbolt for modesty’s sake.

Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom

Flaming Thunderbolts of Wisdom

prayer wheels near temple of Divine Madman

Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom

Very sorry? Maybe riding a bike isn't good for the Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom

Just in front of Divine Madman's temple

abstract version of Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom?

People bring newborns to the temple to have names assigned and women come in hopes of getting pregnant. There’s even a book with photos in the assembly hall showing parents with offspring.

And, leveraging off their proximity to this temple, the town makes a go of it by selling many different versions of penises. And, to attract customers, pics above are some advertisements painted on the sides of stores.

#doesthisplacereallyexist ?

Lunch spot

Queen, #5 and #6

Fiddlehead fern

Naturally red rice, a local delicacy

Another very low-end buffet lunch amidst other tour groups loading up their plates. We are not here for the food, that’s for sure.

The town is just below the confluence of two rivers, cleverly named to synch up with the Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom: there’s the male river and the female river.

Mooned by a monk! THB was looking forward to seeing his Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom, so was DB

Uma Pumaka is a very nice, modest place: a huge veranda facing the river in the main building, nice decorated.

Greeted by Kelly, the GM; she's from Minnesota originally, spent last 13 years in Thailand and gave us some tips about our 1.5 days in Bangkok (avoid the traffic, go by river!)

We've left the mountains so the meet and greet ginger drink is served cold

Because we have all clean clothes, for the last week we'll be skimming outfits off the top of the suitcases instead of unpacking

Bathroom back to industrial hotel size

View from our balcony

Pretty spectacular; per Kelly the mountains have been obscured for several weeks

THB thinks this part of the view is of the female river

Set up for large Chinese group having mid-afternoon meal

Our room is also modest, especially the standards set by our accommodations. The big plus is a balcony. And, as has happened before, we’ve had to call to find out how to turn off one of the lights. There are two ways: finding a very obscure on/off switch coiled around the base and a switch hidden on the wall.

We’ve plenty of time, so THB continues to scale Mt Everest in the early 1920s and do a 7 minute workout while DB knits and reads some about the history of Bhutan. Tashi and Chencho are roaming around town and spot the King and King #4...very excited!

VIP? Two or three young women taking his pic at same time so THB piles on...THB talks to this guy, he's from Beijng

Glamour pose

Ginger tea and cookies

Dinner was excellent: DB and THB go western. DB has a rocket (arugula) salad and spaghetti appetizers as her dinner, THB has lamb chops (nice and rare and fatty) over polenta with a rocket salad. THB and DB share a mild chocolate cake with ice cream dessert and DB has part of a bottle of Australian sauvignon blanc (THB is taking is once-a-week auto-immune cancer drug for his Necrotizing Myositis and thus will help finish the bottle tomorrow night), $42.

As always, Tashi and Chenpo go Bhutanese, with a second helping of red rice.

Dumplings to start for Tashi and Chencho; they are of course having the Bhutanese meal...we never see them eat anything western

Roasted eggplant soup

DB's salad, THB wasn't fast enough and the salad was top notch

A THB fave anywhere: rare lamb chops on soft polenta

DB has spaghetti starter as her main course

THB's rocket salad before being devoured

Dinner with Chencho and Tashi, much laughter (Tashi is one cheerful guy). Chencho shares pictures of his older son (around 4 or 5, Chencho is 39), and is hopeful of making Bhutan's 2020 Olympic team in archery. He also finds a great pic that fits today’s theme: a Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom earring. We discuss getting pics sent over, so that should happen. The video of the nuns is still under discussion.

Finally…the stars are out tonight and many many can be seen. THB may bet up later tonight/early tomorrow and go out on the balcony for another viewing!

Pics from here and there: