Day
10: Hosokute to Kyoto
QOTD: 7 miles before lunch? 65 miles in a week? No
problema….
Hiking
Haiku:
Raven’s call, breeze skims
Across the trail top, a
Japan melody.
Weather: high 60s, feels warmer on the blacktop and no breeze
Pics: Breakfast, French pastries on the
Nakasendo, after 7 days with DB Fusao no longer needs tech support
Fusao provides a mini bio: Fusao Ariga, Japan Travelogue, Finnish Japanese; lived in Tokyo
and Kyoto for 17 years; now lives in
London with wife and two kids; loves daifuku mochi filled with azuki bean paste
and photography; guiding in Japan for 12 years.
THB’s
version of Fusao (as always, THB’s version is semi-fiction): Dad in the
Japanese foreign service and met Fusao’s mom on blind date on assignment to
Finland, fluent in Japanese and Finnish (THB cannot vouch for this) and British,
in his early 40s, wife grew up in Birmingham
and works for the BBC, boys are 5 and 3 (so he has no idea what is really
coming, none), reserved and informative (great combo) and polite, loves
chatting up the innkeepers and restaurant folks (which seemed to get us
preferential treatment), takes photos with camera and i-phone (allowing THB to
get in his high-quality shots unobtrusively), always prompt, hardly ever took a
wrong turn, encouraged us to make up our own rules (e.g., cab to the top of the
mountain, start early, etc.), enjoys good cheat eats (as does THB, especially
on the road), and most importantly got us to the end all in one piece with
smiles on our faces. Highly recommended
Up
and at ‘em by 8:30 so we can be first in line at La Province when they open at
10am. We’re actually a few minutes early, order two mini-muffins (THB is not
quite sure about what they resemble: stiff sponge cake?) and a mini cheese cake
tart for DB, and a chestnut mousse on a cookie for THB (both excellent), two café
au laits, $19. THB’s camera goes haywire
for a few hours, so no close-ups of our elevensees.
We’re
on the road again by 10:30, and at the end of the hike right around noon, in
time for Fusao to get us 3 orders of stir fry noodles with egg on top and bits
of pork and veggies mixed in, all for $5 a plate (camera not tried, too bad
because meal very photogenic).
Three
trains later, we’re in Kyoto at 3, say goodbye to Fusao, take a short cab ride
to the Hyatt Regency ($7.30), and greet all three of our bags. Park Hotel has
got the big back here from Tokyo and the Route Inn Hotel the two little bags
from Ena. Everything is working smoothly!
Time
to wash up, empty all the bags, rearrange everything, and sit down for a drink in
the lobby to await E&J, who stroll in at 5:30 with their own stories of
their first two days in Kyoto. Drinks for 4, $46. Dinner in the Japanese
restaurant in the Hyatt: small portions (sashimi for DB, grilled chicken for
THB, a shared small mushroom and eggplant salad seemingly minus the eggplant),
free glasses of wine when they take 30 minutes to tell us the wine we ordered
is not available, $55/couple, and off to bed.
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