DAy 4: Tokyo to Narai via the Usui Pass

Day 4: Tokyo to Narai

QOTD:  Why do you think they’ve covered up the bus schedule?

Hiking Haiku:

Hiked with two good friends
up rocky trails, across streams,
through fallow orchards.

 

Weather:  70s in Tokyo in morning, overcast and foggy on Usui Pass, low 70s and no wind in Narai

Pics:  content of THB’s backpack, DB and Fusao consult on train tickets, bullet train, rice ball, pre-hike snack of roll with roe seasoning, onto the Nakasendo, many pics along the trail, DB and THB and Fusao just short of the summit, at the summit for lunch, more shots on the way down, Yayoi is in the building, many shots of Narai and the mishku (guest house), and DB and THB dress for dinner

Same-same for breakfast and then Fusao meets us in the lobby at 8:30 to start the send ahead process for our bags. One bag on its way to Kyoto (for all of $13), two smaller bags heading off to our second stop on the hike (included). THB and DB are carrying just what we need for next two days and one night (see pic). THB decides that the netbook is coming for you followers who want to stay current, and with an i-pad, kindle, various cords, kits, a few clothes, water, and some snacks, it probably weighs between 15 and 50 pounds (THB always rounds up). DB is carrying lightweight clothes (which is good, because we end up needing layers). Park Hotel included as well.

A very short walk to the JR line and the bullet train, heading northwest for about an hour, then we get off in a town where the featured artist at the local museum is Yayoi Kusama. Yayoi’s polka-dotted pumpkin-like sculpture is what first attracted DB to come to Japan on an art trip. And, THB is very thankful!

We pick up tuna sandwiches for our lunch ($5) and a seasoned roll for pre-hike ($2, see what was left in pics before it all disappeared). Off we go at a brisk pace through town (including a very touristy portion), for a distance (half mile?) on a road, then find the trailhead (phew, because otherwise we would have to start calling Fusao THF).

It is overcast, and as we ascent towards the Usui Pass it gets a bit misty to finally almost cloud-like (shades of one of our ascents on the Queen Charlotte’s Track on our NZ hike…speaking of Kiwis, can’t they close out Larry? It has been going on for far too long, so long that Oracle is thinking they could win if there aren’t any more penalties awaiting them).

Fortunately, no bears seen (though wasn’t that a cute sign?). Get to the top, and vista opens up so that we can see….we can see…we can’t see anything. The mountains surrounding the pass are known for their beauty. Since we have not seen another soul on the trail so far, seems like the word got to most everyone that this was not the day for views. Actually, the word got out to at least the bus company, who has cancelled the buses for the day and thus your three intrepid hikers are now heading back down the trail rather than getting a ride. That makes the hike somewhere between 7 and 10 miles (THB rounds up…call it 11).

As we get to town, the crowds are in evidence, and we’re dodging them as best we can trying to get to the train station, it is gonna be tight. To help, we catch a taxi just at the point the pedestrian mall ends, Fusao gives the cabbie instructions and off we fly down the back road (this town is pretty small, THB thinks there may only be one back road), we fly up the stairs, we’ve missed our train by a few minutes. Not to worry, here comes another, and by the next transfer we’re back on schedule. An hour on this bullet train, then a transfer to a local (or is it two transfers?) and we’ve made it to Narai.

Narai is very much preserved, about a mile of two story buildings, very close together. Our inn is another half mile into town (round up, maybe a mile to two miles…remember, THB is carrying somewhere upwards of 50 pounds minus the half pound of water drunk on the hike, so round up to maybe 55 pounds now).

We’re upstairs, in a room maybe 10 x 10 feet (in this case, maybe round down a bit), wall to wall tatami mat, once small table and lots of bedding in the closet.

After a few minutes to catch our breath (and fire up the computer and the i-pad and get logged on to their hi-speed wifi), DB goes first to take a “shower” and a soak. Then THB goes…it’s great to be clean after the hike and to soak in a very very hot (round up, 40-45 degrees Celsius, maybe 50?) tub, fortunately for THB, it comes complete with a cold water faucet (the hot water is running into the tub non-stop).

Dinner is laid out for us in advance: ramen with mountain potato “slurry,” sashimi, cold fried fish (excellent, marinated?), pickles, hot egg custard with local mushrooms (also excellent), cold mushrooms, miso soup, eggplant, locally shot venison semi-cured and tempura'd served cold, two kinds of sake, and a low table that THB struggled to get his legs under and then to be comfortable. Fortunately, they have cushions with a back for us westerners.  

Make up our futon beds, double layered at the hips...so tired, fall asleep immediately anyway...