Saturday, July 12, 2014

Day 3: Reykjavik to almost Hofn



Day 3: Reykjavik to short of Hofn

QOTD: In the early thirteenth century internal conflict (Sturlung Era) weakened Iceland which eventually became subjugated to Norway through the Old Covenant (1262-4), effectively ending the Commonwealth. Norway in turn was united with Sweden (1319) and then Denmark (1376). Eventually all of the Nordic states were united in one alliance, the Kalmar Union (1397–1523), but on its dissolution Iceland fell under Danish rule.

Weather: More of the same, very little sun, lots of overcast, sometimes raining, sometimes windy, always around 50

Pop Quiz: What time was it when this picture was taken?
 

Sleep a bit better on night 2, though not quite long enough for THB. Breakfast of coffee, toast, muesli, a few berries, and 1.5% milk. Attempt to throw out the trash and THB fails to find the “dust bins.” They must be hiding them extremely well in our building….or it is still jet lag for THB. C'mon, can't find the giant building trash containters? Really?

Today we are traveling southeast along Route 1 (a happy coincidence with our rental car company’s name), somewhere around 250-300 miles, spending the night near the big town of Hofn (that’s a joke: after Reykjavik and its 185k, there are no big cities or towns in Iceland...none).
 Geothermic hot houses

Bird houses up high

And, lo and behold, the trip is one of the best (ie, most scenic) THB and DB have ever taken! A combo of the great ride between the glaciers and Queenstown on the South Island of New Zealand, the Grand Tetons NP, the desolation of the Mojave, a bit of Arches NP,  and the beauty of Patagonia  (okay, maybe not THAT good, since Patagonia is over the top gorgeous).






Lunch about halfway at  Halldorskaffi cafe in Vik (the southernmost part of Iceland): lamb and chicken sandwiches (think 1957 on white bread with mayo), thick cut fires, one not-great draft brewski, $50 (yes, things are more expensive here, even with tax and tip included). 
Halldorskaffi restaurant, unmarked


 
About $40 for half tank, one of two such fill-ups today
THB does manage to catch a bird in the grill of the car (not easy to do). The bird doe not survive the collision. Could it be one of those endangered Bay Area plovers? Very hard to tell, THB doubts it.
 
Above the road kill

Could be a Fulmar






This bird has cease to be

Why national parks everywhere have something in common: 

Please, no hair or clothes, hands only


Here are lots of shots from the road, and maybe even a video!






















Glacier Lagoon    
And, if it works, here are icebergs floating around in the Glacier Lagoon: 

After 7 hours, the weather closes in and we can’t see much either side of the road, so rather than go all the way to Hofn and come back to our hotel, we decide to call it a day and just check-in at the Hali Country Hotel near Jokulsaron (glacier lagoon). Same for dinner: rather than try and find something “better” we settle for the restaurant attached to the hotel. 
We've seen another building (in Japan?) with books on the outside






The hotel is austere, though the room is not small. It's more like staying in a national park: food is mediocre, the staff is from all overthe world (and everyone speaks English to each other and the customers), and the scenery is great! 

Dinner of cod and char, small salads, veggies, and a glass of the house wine, $100 . The room is $300 and includes a buffet breakfast, and you get great scenery if the weather ever lifts.

3 comments:

  1. dear dad,
    a picture of birdhouses juxtaposed with dead bird on grill- weird.
    also, are those just for show or do birds really use the birdhouses way up there? (i guess it's not high for the birds, but how do they get cleaned?)
    -lb

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  2. Dear LB: very perceptive! and, more perceptive than THB, who did not connect those dots. We did not wait enough to see if birds were coming and going from the houses, THB suspects they are unused. THB

    ReplyDelete
  3. The grill bird might be pinin'

    ReplyDelete