Day 5: Reykjavik

Day 5: Reykjavik 

QOTD:  Iceland remained part of Denmark, but in keeping with the rise of nationalism around Europe in the nineteenth century an independence movement emerged. The Althing, which had been suspended in 1799, was restored in 1844, and Iceland gained sovereignty after World War I, on 1 December 1918.

Weather: Same: overcast, raining (hard once), a bit of blue skies, 50 degrees

 

Conehead toothbrush holders?

Why you can't just whizz by AND read the street names

Notes and observations: In response to one of THB’s fearless followers, THB figured out that our condo is due south of Reykjavik. That means that when we were in Reykjavik, that is the furthest north THB and DB have been (while on the ground). The second largest city in Iceland, Akureyn, 17,000 pop, is very near the Arctic Circle, and is about 5 hours drive from here. Puerto Natales in Chile is the furthest south we’ve been and is further south than Cape Town (coming up in a 6 weeks).

Five and ten dollar bills

Yep, a patch of blue sky

In response to another (the other?) fearless follower, a great approach to seeing Iceland is to take an island bus tour (eg, with Iceland Encounter, 9 days). Someone else does all the driving, the stops are all going to be spectacular (on our drive the last two days, you could be stopping ever 30 kilometers), and includes a short plane ride to the Arctic Circle. Maximizes the nature part of Iceland, which is the best reason to be here.

 

The ferry to Videy

Grazing sheep seem to come in threes: we saw what appeared to be a ewe with two yearlings (not newborns) out in the fields along the road to Hofn. And, nearer Reykjavik we saw lots of horses grazing…meat? Nope, just a major outdoor sport; there’s nothing like seeing a string of bright orange ponchos riding in the rain.

 

How many Ps in Stoppppp?

Okay, back to the daily minutiae: breakfast same-same, then a trip into town to tour Harpa, the major concert hall in town. Planning initiated in early 2000s construction started in 2007, stopped in 2008 when Iceland pretty much got the ball rolling on the Great Recession, restarted shortly thereafter when the government stepped in, completed in 2011. Biggest feature is the glass structure surrounding the building, designed by Olafur Eliasson (major light artist).

After the tour, lunch at the “Best Hot Dog” stand in Reykjavik. Known for helping to cure hangovers, THB has two and DB one, and clearly we did not have enough to drink ahead of time as they aren’t all that special; with a diet coke, $15.

She never got off her bike while digging for change, dropping her backpack and picking up her hot dog

Two with mustard on top and cold fried onions underneath

Note: built in racks on tables to hold your extra hot dogs (and Island is Iceland in another language)

Now for the big outing of the day: a visit to Videy Island and a chance to see another Richard Serra installation. Not the normal steel structures, pairs of basalt pillars set to help frame the view from Videy towards Reykjavik (about 500 yards offshore, $10pp by ferry) and the surrounding area. Two hours later, back on real land and in the condo for a rest-up.

America's greatest living sculptor

 A series of pillars framing the view. THB and DB model in front of each one (the ones where we aren't in the picture are duplicate pictures taken from afar)

What the locals use the sculpture for

 

Yes, we got muddy and our socks were soaked, all for the sake of art

Not a Serra

Icelandic for "hiking in muddy conditions to the left"

Icelandic for "hiking in muddy conditions to the right"

Another not-a-Serra piece

Dinner at home: pasta with chicken, salad, bread, local brewski, cookies from Market Hall in Rockridge

Blue skies and the flag of Iceland