Day 5: Kagoshima to Takeoonsen

Day 5 (Monday, Oct 19): train from Kagoshima to Takeoonsen

Weather: Moderate in Kagoshima, hot in Takeoonsen in the afternoon, cooling considerably at night

Dept of Corrections: DB points out that “In the beginning…” is not a Hebrew prayer, it is the beginning of the Old Testament. Hey, to THB it is all one long prayer.

 

Wrong

Right

Up only a little early, pre-breakfast of day-old rolls from the ryokan gift shop (they were fresh when THB bought them). Maybe up more than a little too early, since THB manages to spill the brewing coffee…into the inset for the plugs. Not pretty.

Another large breakfast spread: 3 or 4 types of tofu, a large chunk of fish, various pickled veggies, fish ball in broth, hard boiled egg, chunks of apple and orange for dessert.

 

Louise Nevelson style

And, not all dishes are shown

Checkout at Ishiharaso: Saturday night came to around $1,000 (remember, this includes a terrific breakfast and a fabulous dinner), Sunday night came $900 (Sunday must be slightly cheaper, and the dinner was a few courses shorter than Saturday). The outdoor private night-time bath was $9 (as far as THB can understand the bill, because the line items are in Japanese).

We’re traveling north: turn in the car at the Kagoshima train station, buy train tickets to Takeoonsen (today) and to Osaka (two days from now, total is $700 for two of us) and take a taxi to the Chickurintei Ryokan, $9.

Lunch on the train: bento boxes and rice balls, tea, and dessert of several varieties of manju, $20 for four.

Pictorial Pop Quiz #5: Identify these objects

YT has reserved a terrific room for us, including our own private hot springs tub in the garden. Very picturesque and spacious. In fact, so spacious the four of us will be dining en suite in our room tonight.

The emperor's suite:

We’re the first to check-in, so we get to tour the Emperor’s suite (he stayed here 20+ years ago). It’s immense, and available. We decide it is so immense it would be uncomfortable (THB did not have courage to ask how much it would be, nor even the courage to ask how much our room is; it will be a surprise for THB!).

Our suite:

YT encourages us to use the ryokan’s communal hot springs onsen, and THB and DB separate into men and women sides; it is very nice (and a bit lonely, as we’re the only two there).

 

Free drinks at the communal onsen

Dinner is served in our room, with Y&YT joining us as there’s no communal dining room for the 11 rooms at the ryokan. It’s another extensive multi-course event:

-        Aperitif of plum wine with sake

-        Sashimi with lobster, red snapper and one other fish

-        Tofu “terrine” topped with ebi and uni

-        Soup with fish paste, mushroom, and gingko nuts

-        Souflle-like topping with fish, mushroom and chestnut

-        White chrysanthemum manju

-        Soup with mushroom, fish and shrimp

-        Steak (highest Japanese rating) highly marbled and flavorful, with salad and salmon wrapped in daikon

-        Rice, miso and pickled veggies

-        Soy milk custard and tea

Dinner in pictures:

The staff:

Down below the ryokan is a “lake” (large pond), lit with floating lanterns and spotlights highlighting the many Japanese maples. We sit at a bar (in several extra layers provided by the ryokan) and THB has a strong ginger drink (good for the digestion?).

Now it’s time for the last soak of the day, in our private tub in our private garden. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh…..

Pictorial Pop Quiz Answers: Manju

(or, a black pig and a yellow dog?)