Day 7:
Bar Harbor to Owls Head
Quote of the day: I looked along the
San Juan Islands and the coast of California, but I couldn't find the palette
of green, granite, and dark blue that you can only find in Maine.
Weather:
Fog, rain, rain hard at times, clearing in the afternoon, pretty sunset
Pics: Morning Glory
Bakery, BH Inn in the fog, Café This Way sign, Rockland utility box, Camden
tree, Owls Head General Store, Shepherd’s Pie
Walk in BH in the
midst of fog, then breakfast at Morning Glory Bakery of chocolate and cream
cheese scone, jam pocket, coffee and baguette and cinnamon bread for later,
$15. Checkout of the BH Inn: $240/night including breakfast. The plan for the
morning is to take a small boat to one of the islands partly in ANP, with a
ranger on board, the last 10am departure of the season. Fog…okay, it will clear
up and off we go. Fog lifts and it starts raining. And then raining more
firmly. Off we go, to stay with friends in Owls Head.
Along the way, we do
a bit of gallery shopping, then meet up with C, R and D, where we are staying
for the next four nights. Lunch at Owls
Head General Store: crab rolls, crab melt, tuna melts, a few drinks, around $70
for 5.
Run errands with C&R, rest up for dinner, then the five
of us head to Shepherd’s Pie in Rockport, around 20 minutes from Owls Head.
Lots of shared plates (oysters, wood roasted oysters, blue squash, roast
mussels, fried crab tacos, fried Brussels sprouts, spicy beef salad), one drink, a bottle of sauvignon blanc, $220.
Day 8:
Owls Head
Quote of the day: See above
Weather:
Clear and very cool in the morning, perfect the rest of the day
Pics: Sunrise in Owls
Head, lots of shots in and around Owls Head, Camden, from the water of Penobscot
Bay, Captain Aaron, Cappy’s Bakery, Mt Battie, and lobsters fresh off the boat
Book Review:
George F Kennan, An American Life, by John Gaddis. And what a long life
and book it was. The 20th century of post-revolutionary Russia-USSR
geopolitical efforts as seen through the prism of the American most famous for
predicting the course of action best suited for the integration of Russia with
the democratic world: containment.
Kennan was a quirky guy: much more comfortable being a consultant who
wanted his viewpoint always sought and advice taken and yet incapable of taking
a leadership role. And, he practically outlived his biographer, making it past
100, after they started the project in Kennan’s 70s (or was it his 80s?).
Recommended if are interested in mid 20th century politics.
Up for a pretty
sunrise, a walk with R (DB goes for walk with C, as always), light breakfast
(toast, coffee, apple), and then a chance to take that cruise missed in Acadia
NP. DB picks up a sandwich at the local Camden Deli (THB brings toasted
baguette and hardboiled eggs from BH leftovers) , with drinks $13; THB picks up
great cookies at Cappy’s, $4.50, and off
we go on the Olad to take a sailing cruise in Penobscot Bay ($74 for 2),
leaving from Camden. Gorgeous, smooth, slow, gentle, and replete with stories
from Captain Aaron who has been everywhere, has met all the big local names
(Cronkite, et al).
Make a few stops on
the way back from Camden: take in the view of ANP from Mount Battie, pick up
bread at Sweets and Meats, and C&R give us a tour of local hoods where R
spent many a year when younger as well as pick up dinner for tonight
(soft-shelled lobsters right off the boat, $40). Local blueberry pie for dessert, and lots of
wine.
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