Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Days 7-8 Bar Harbor to Owls Head










Day 7:  Bar Harbor to Owls Head

Quote of the day:  I looked along the San Juan Islands and the coast of California, but I couldn't find the palette of green, granite, and dark blue that you can only find in Maine.


Weather:    Fog, rain, rain hard at times, clearing in the afternoon, pretty sunset

Pics:     Morning Glory Bakery, BH Inn in the fog, Café This Way sign, Rockland utility box, Camden tree, Owls Head General Store, Shepherd’s Pie

Walk in BH in the midst of fog, then breakfast at Morning Glory Bakery of chocolate and cream cheese scone, jam pocket, coffee and baguette and cinnamon bread for later, $15. Checkout of the BH Inn: $240/night including breakfast. The plan for the morning is to take a small boat to one of the islands partly in ANP, with a ranger on board, the last 10am departure of the season. Fog…okay, it will clear up and off we go. Fog lifts and it starts raining. And then raining more firmly. Off we go, to stay with friends in Owls Head.

Along the way, we do a bit of gallery shopping, then meet up with C, R and D, where we are staying for the next four nights.  Lunch at Owls Head General Store: crab rolls, crab melt, tuna melts, a few drinks, around $70 for 5.

Run errands with C&R, rest up for dinner, then the five of us head to Shepherd’s Pie in Rockport, around 20 minutes from Owls Head. Lots of shared plates (oysters, wood roasted oysters, blue squash, roast mussels, fried crab tacos, fried Brussels sprouts, spicy beef salad),  one drink, a bottle of sauvignon blanc, $220.

Back to find out that there was an earthquake two hours from here….we sure didn’t feel it. And, a presidential debate (no earthquake). And, the Yankees losing again to the Tigers (making most of New England very happy).
































Day 8:  Owls Head

Quote of the day: See above


Weather:    Clear and very cool in the morning, perfect the rest of the day

Pics:    Sunrise in Owls Head, lots of shots in and around Owls Head, Camden, from the water of Penobscot Bay, Captain Aaron, Cappy’s Bakery, Mt Battie, and lobsters fresh off the boat

Book Review:     George F Kennan, An American Life, by John Gaddis. And what a long life and book it was. The 20th century of post-revolutionary Russia-USSR geopolitical efforts as seen through the prism of the American most famous for predicting the course of action best suited for the integration of Russia with the democratic world: containment.  Kennan was a quirky guy: much more comfortable being a consultant who wanted his viewpoint always sought and advice taken and yet incapable of taking a leadership role. And, he practically outlived his biographer, making it past 100, after they started the project in Kennan’s 70s (or was it his 80s?). Recommended if are interested in mid 20th century politics.

Up for a pretty sunrise, a walk with R (DB goes for walk with C, as always), light breakfast (toast, coffee, apple), and then a chance to take that cruise missed in Acadia NP. DB picks up a sandwich at the local Camden Deli (THB brings toasted baguette and hardboiled eggs from BH leftovers) , with drinks $13; THB picks up great cookies at Cappy’s,  $4.50, and off we go on the Olad to take a sailing cruise in Penobscot Bay ($74 for 2), leaving from Camden. Gorgeous, smooth, slow, gentle, and replete with stories from Captain Aaron who has been everywhere, has met all the big local names (Cronkite, et al).

Make a few stops on the way back from Camden: take in the view of ANP from Mount Battie, pick up bread at Sweets and Meats, and C&R give us a tour of local hoods where R spent many a year when younger as well as pick up dinner for tonight (soft-shelled lobsters right off the boat, $40).  Local blueberry pie for dessert, and lots of wine.

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