Day 17: Lima
Quote of the day: What time do you want
to go to the airport tomorrow?
Weather: Pleasant, a bit of marine layer in the
morning, burning off to low 70s with occasional breezes
Pics: Hotel B under construction, with Delfin (local artist and B&B owner), around Lima
In bed around 2am (it
is the next day, after all), up at around 8am to find a decent breakfast b(uffet)
laid out in the library on small short tables next to couches and mini-chairs.
Since THB is eating, the beta part of breakfast is acceptable. The slow
delivery of coffee and hot milk is tempered by the arrival of the coffee,
downed quickly.
Around 10am, the
three couples disperse to take in the arts district separately. Is THB having
separation anxiety? The six of us have been almost conjoined at the hips for
over two weeks.
Some very good local
galleries, some interesting folk art, upscale design stores, photography
museum, and a great tour of a local painter’s studio (Delfin) and B&B
(which he built himself for most part).
Lunch at La
Pescederia, highly recommended by the manager of the B&B (Delfin’s
daughter). La Pescederia is a true find. Only open for lunch, THB and DB share
ceviche with pulpos fritos, grilled atun con capers, and complimentary cups of
delicious fish soup, “corn nuts,” and alaflores (small cookies we first had in
Argentina), two bottles of water, dos Peruvian cervezas, generous tip for a
great waiter, $50.
Out again for trip to
Museo de Contemporario Artes; mediocre. B(ack) up to room, fighting construction
fumes, to rest up some more (did THB tell you what time he got to hotel? VERY
EARLY in morning). However, since we
have to keep the door to the balcony open (there are no windows in the room),
the street noise is at a significant decibel level.
When THB checked in
early this morning (did he say how early?) we were advised that Tea would be
served in the late afternoon at Hotel B(arely). So, dutifully we plan our day
accordingly and show up at the appointed time. Sorry, no Tea today.
Instead, we stroll
along the palisade, stop for frozen lemonade, orange juice and a mushroom
empanada, $12, and stroll back to Hotel B(izarre) to find out the lights in our
room are out, so read Kindle at Hotel B(acklit). And they stay off (the plugs
and A/C are working). After a number of visitors (some with flashlights) we are
moved to another room. The new room is a strange set-up, and the entryway floor
is tacky; they lacquered it early in the day.
The six of us head
off to dinner at a spot just a few blocks from Hotel B(lackout). Pollo for THB
and DB, comes with a green salad and half an avocado, pisco sours with
passionfruit (excellente), $65, in a mix of $ and solas. At one time when the
Peruvian currency was bobbing up and down, the dollar became king and big
ticket items like cars, houses, apartments, and art were sold in dollars. Now
the solas has stabilized and the dollar has stuck around.
Upon return from the
restaurant, the lights are on in our old room: it turned out that the A/C had
somehow created condensation inside the wall and dripped onto the wiring
controlling the lights. And, one of our group’s room had a leaking toilet. One
room we might have moved to did have a broken toilet (we heard it had flooded a
day or two before we arrived). The hotel manager claimed it was a soft launch.
Really? Bring in visitors touring first class and make sure they know what it
is like to live in a constructions zone? We’re awaiting our refund from Hotel
B(roken)!
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