Day 6: Galapagos

Day 6:  - Galapagos

Quote of the day: Can you see the feet?

Weather:    Low 70s with slight to very heavy breezes on the ridges, overcast at night so no star gazing

Pics:   THB and DB in the water, wet landing, on the hike, mockingbird, THB and DB on the ridge, red-footed booby juveniles (white and brown in pics), S&M&A&P, dove, from the panga and on the beach in the afternoon, P&M ghost crab rustling, ghost crab, THB and DB’s cabin, Lion’s Rock (?) and a “welcome collage” from our steward

Overnight, the boat has relo’d to San Cristobal Island, and at 6am we’re off to hike. Not a typo: we left on THB time (he’s up at 5:15 anyway) to beat the heat. THB is up early enough that the moccachino maker is functioning, and we share coffees and a power bar for our first breakfast.  When we’re starting to queue for the panga, the machine stops and Daniel “fixes” it by giving it a clout on both sides. Hmmmmm…

A short panga ride and a wet landing (you jump from the back of the panga into surf that is knee hign, see pics) amidst a flock of sea lions, mostly juveniles. Before we can start the hike, Sandy (our naturalist) has to shoo away a large juvenile male blocking the path; she’s the sea lion whisperer of naturalists. Great to watch a good whisperer in action (it turns out Sandy is a nature linguist, imitating the birds, sea lions of all ages, and probably even ghost crabs).

The reason we’ve got an early start is to beat the heat. It’s an exposed trail up the side of a small mountain, through rock and “slot canyon” like erosion. That gets us up to a very windy ridge with great views. Over the ridge and down slightly to another vista where just below us red-footed boobies are nesting. Unfortunately, it is very hard to see the red feet when the birds are sitting on them. They also have very pretty light blue beaks. Also seen: mockingbirds, finches, doves, lizards and local endemic plants.

Round trip is about 2 hours, and it was great to combine aerobic exercise, great scenery and terrific wildlife.

Breakfast outdoors, the usual cereal and toast, this time the moving toast device is working and THB is ready to eat in no time.

There is a 9:15 panga ride, we decide to skip it and save our energy for the 10:30 snorkel (based on subsequent events today, that might be a mistake…we’ll never know). The Eclipse schedule is a big plus if you want to maximize your time here. Almost the entire boat is within 5-10 years of our age (probably 5) and of the 37 on board 23 got on the 6am hike. We’re thinking way less than that are on the panga, three activites before noon is one too many (some may be counting breakfast as an activity).

The first half of the snorkel event is a dud. Then we shift locations and THB and DB get to be in a sea lion ballet: seven sea lions and six or seven snorkelers (because the first site was a dud, half the group decided to stay in the panga)  cavort at different speeds, with the sea lions providing the up tempo movements. Quite a thrill!

Ecuadorian lunch al fresco: RICE!!! Hurray…with chicken in a “spicy” sauce (meaning, not spicy at all), empanadas, fresh whole fish.  

The afternoon event is a panga ride and a visit to a local beach. Kind of like saying “I will take you to lunch and a game” and it is tailgating with Wolfgang Puck followed by a playoff game where you get to sit behind the home team’s bench or dugout. DB is too exhausted from our two prior outings so stays in to rest up. We coast by a spectacular rock cliff with cave inlets and arches and from there we end up on the beach that is prettier than the one they use in the ads you see for vacationing in paradise. Swimming in paradise, priceless!

Before dinner, off the front of the boat, we see three random spouts at least 5 minutes apart and a slight hint of a hump. We all agree, that counts as a whale sighting. Nobody suggests that it counts as seeing four whales. Hmmmm…three?

Dinner is a BBQ, also al fresco: rare roast beef, thin sliced pork chops with grilled pineapple, sausage, baked potatoes, chimichanga and mustard sauces….excellent! Oh, and Baked Alaska and carrot cake for dessert, passable. THB passes on salads tonight, concentrating on protein and sugar.

Book Review: I, Hogarth, Michael Dean. A fictionalized, eccentric tale of William Hogarth as told in the first person (i.e., a mock-autobiography). Since THB knows nothing about Hogarth, it’s hard to tell how effective this is in getting across the type of person Hogarth really was. It’s a decent fast read, mildly recommended.     

Now for a bit of gossip: there is a family of three aboard: what appears to be parents and a 24 year old daughter (though she looks like she could be as young as 17). They all take massive camera lenses with them whenever they go out. And the dad asks the type of question that shows how erudite he is or is meant to embarrass the person being asked rather than for gathering information. He might be from Manhattan; mom has a foreign accent. Is the kid happy? She doesn’t appear unhappy, just sort of neutral. And, they all carry these massive cameras (so massive THB repeats himself) and at least two of them are carrying multiple cameras), though only dad is rude enough to stand up for long periods of time on the panga blocking the views of half the others aboard. He thought the lava walk was dangerous and shouldn’t be on offer.