Day 12: S. Georgia Island, St Andrews Bay and Grytviken

Day 12: S. Georgia Island, St Andrews Bay and Grytviken

Weather: Ideal except for a few moments in the morning when the wind kicked up

Quote of The Day:  What time is it?

Today’s first excursion, St. Andrews Bay, starts leaving the ship at 6am which means a 5am PA wake-up. If that wasn’t bad enough, the seas were exceptionally rough during the night and it was near impossible to get any continuous sleep (neither of us are taking sea-sickness meds or wearing a patch). The kayakers we’re on alert to the possibility of getting a kayak in and were advised to be on the 6am Zodiac. Of course the kayak outing was cancelled.

A brief breakfast at 5:30 (THB goes for the juke – rice porridge - with toppings) and off we go. There’s a question of where to land as the entire cove is littered with elephant seals and the beach is steep. Our zodiac, the 2^nd to leave the ship, hovers while the staff picks the put-in spot.

Once ashore it is a toss-up: spend time roaming inland amongst the 200-300,000 King Penguins or stay amongst the 500 or so elephant seals. Penguins win out and we get extremely close to some of the penguins while parking ourselves on a ridge to give a vista of penguins up and down the beach and valley.

A slow walk back to the beach and plenty of time to cozy up to the very docile pups and mature male elephant seals (there were a few of the more unwelcoming fur seals). A return to the ship and about 30 minutes to rest up before the 10:30 brunch. THB has one of his fave sandwiches: roast pork on toast with lots of mustard. DB has a chicken burger and fries.

Pics from St Andrews:

Molting

THB and DB with thousands of penguins

Tail closeup

Staff photo

Nate, staff leader

Offshore iceberg, maybe 1-2 miles away

THB is feeling punkish after lunch and has a lay down and Dramamine. The late afternoon excursion is to Grytviken, the only “town” on S. Georgia. There’s a museum, a graveyard (Shackelton’s grave is nearby, it’s under repair), gift shop, church, and a worn down whalers station. The all-year staff totals four, and they bulk up a bit for the tourist season.

And, it’s potentially a kayak outing in the sheltered cover. Temp is hovering at 32F, maybe in the 20s with wind chill. For THB and DB it’s decision time: do the dry suit thing and await the kayak verdict on shore. THB is feeling better so we decide to prep as if kayaking. Before leaving the ship, there’s a thorough inspection to make sure nothing is brought ashore that might contaminate the immediate area and one of the four full-time residents makes a pitch for donating to the charity that supports the environmental improvements (primarily rat elimination) and spend $$ at the gift shop (not bad looking stuff).

Off we go: half of the ship at a time gathers for a whiskey toast to Shackelton and his #2 guy while Seb gives a bit of history. Then we’re let loose to walk the town. THB and DB gather at the kayak put-in point, only 10 of us are going this time, 4 have decided not to dress up and two got in kayak gear and decided not to go. It’s a last minute thing, the wind has died down, a spot of rain doesn’t deter our leaders, and off we go for an hour of kayaking. It turns out to be great: we see nursing elephant seal pups, a nesting gull, lots of kelp, clear water, seals frolicking in the water, and DB and THB are in much better paddling synch that the first outing.

We’re that last to board the ship and fortunately for us there is still hot water for our showers. THB is extremely thankful as he is pretty sure that frostbitten hands were a real possibility since he couldn’t feel anything well enough to even put his gloves back on for the short Zodiac back to the ship.

Tonight is bbq for dinner: roast whole pig, ribs, hot dogs, burgers, baked potatoes, fish, salads, and a lot of fancy desserts. By the time we come down to dinner the rush is over so we have an easy time deciding what to have along with our wine and beer.

And, another miracle: somebody found THB’s missing hat and ear warmer from two days ago and it is sitting there at the reception desk, two days after THB misplaced it. How’s that for honesty!! THB and DB are back to full strength…

Pics from Grytviken:

DB