Travels of THB: Day 17: Antarctica Archipelago, Peninsula and Sound

Day 17: Antarctica Archipelago, Peninsula and Sound

Weather: Overcast and extremely cold (low 20s), snowing at times, foggy at times, and a bit of sun in the early morning

Quote of The Day: Damn, we’ll be kayaking on virgin water

THB gets 8 ½ hours of sound sleep, bypassing the 3am sunrise (that implies there was a sunset last night, something THB doubts), med free. We’re just offshore from the Danger Islands (or is it Dangers Island?), and there is a chance of kayaking and visiting the island with its estimated 1.5 million (as in millions) Adelie penguins. It’s a very unusual stop for the HebSky staff: among the 15 or so of them only one has ever been here and that was over 10 years ago.

There’s too much sea ice surrounding any possible landing sites and thus the morning excursion turns into a Zodiac drive-by. 14 of the 16 potential kayakers are sea-broken. THB had half-jumped into his dry suit. Since plans have changed, THB is dressing as instructed: everything you’ve got and anything you can steal from someone not paying attention.

Turns out that when THB goes on a 3+ hour Zodiac cruise in -3C weather (what is the absolute temperature? -10?) THB needs to have borrowed or stolen every piece of cold weather gear on the entire HebSky and carry his own space heater in order to keep his hands and feet warm.

Amazingly, whatever steps were taken were worth the effort because the cruise is a smashing success! Many Adelie penguins, fabulous sea ice, a Weddell Seal, ice in that fascinating range of turquoise blue, and a challenging mid-sea transfer of half the Zodiac passengers to another Zodiac.

Mariela, our Zodiac driver, offered up hand warmers about 2 hours into the excursion and only THB decided to show his vulnerability and said Yes to the Dress!! They worked and after the cruise we were given two more sets by another of our Zodiac riders (C&S: Jackie comes through, karma is a powerful thing!).

Pics from Heroina Island, one of the members of the Danger Islands:

Adelie colony from a distance

A few Adelie's on an iceberg

A hard picture to get, one Adelie all by itself!

Lunch was another of THB’s faves: a whole ham complete with crispy skin (no, THB did not eat the whole thing).

After lunch we retreat to our cabin and after a few hours decide to take showers, the chances of an afternoon excursion are fading into fog and snow and very limited ship speed. Sure enough, Nate the leader comes on and confirms what DB has already figured out: we’ve turned around and headed back to the Danger Islands. There is the possibility of another short Zodiac excursion which THB and DB will graciously decline (it would be a first for THB, he never turns down an excursion).

By gosh, Nate announces there will be another excursion, to an island near Heroina. Even more amazing, he asks those not going on the excursion to sign up at the reception desk. Really? Wouldn’t it be easier to get those who are going to sign up? And, if possible, Nate is highly recommending you wear even more clothes than you had on for the morning excursion! This excursion will be leaving the HebSky at 5:30 (oh, will he ever return?). Dinner for those on the excursion will be served at 8:30, please sign up if you plan to skip this meal!

How many more will be going on an excursion in a snow storm and fog to an island that only promises more Adelie penguins? How many more than 1.5 million (as in millions) penguins can there be to see? THB has a short question for Nate: do you have to take the mental exam before getting on the Zodiac?

There’s a hike in Zion National Park (you know Zion, it’s one of the parks where you can now see oil wells being drilled and fracking set up) that’s called Angel’s Landing. On the shuttle to the hike, the driver announces that this hike is not for those with a fear of heights. THB gets to the part of the hike that leads out over a narrow path with 1000 foot drops on either side and decides it is not the fear of heights that stops him, it is the fear of death (sure enough, several people a year fall off). Is this Zodiac excursion for those who don’t mind a bit of cold or is it some more challenging excursion?

The returnees have a variety of stories to tell: how hard it was snowing, how some of the Zodiacs went one way and some a different way and some both ways, how they saw one Gentoo penguin (quite a feat when there are 1.5 million – that’s millions – of Adelie’s), and how glad they are that they persevered to get in another excursion.